Epic Honeymoon - Day 28 - Barcelona

The infamous Casa Milà.

The next morning we crossed La Rambla and headed towards Barcelona Cathedral, enjoying the scenery of the suburbs. If you see Barcelona from the air, it’s quite an intriguing view: All the buildings appear to be the same height and all laid out in a grid pattern, creating a maze-like effect. The feeling is similar on the ground, with large apartment buildings rising both sides of you, almost enclosing you.

Catalan's flying their flag for independence from Spain.

Arriving at the Cathedral square, we learned a little about the old Barcelona city, called Barcino, which was limited to that local region. Funny how things change over the years and cities just explode in every direction! A similar thing happened to Paris, but we’ll get to that one later!

The origins of Barcelona started with a little town called Barcino.

We paid a visit to the Cathedral Gardens, which is accessible through the small alley to the right of the main Cathedral entrance. In here, you can find 13 white geese, trotting around the (inaccessible) inner garden like they own the place. Back before Christianity was the accepted religion of Spain, the ruler, Consul Dacian, was busy getting rid of as many Christians as he could, as per orders from the Roman Emperor. A girl named Eulalia, aged only 13, who was brought to judgement and refused to renounce her faith. As a result, she was sentenced to 13 tortures; one for each year she’d been alive. She was put inside a barrel filled with knives and rolled a hill, somehow surviving. They tried to burn her at the stake, but the flames didn’t touch her. The trials continued, and eventually she died on the cross. Her remains are entombed at the Cathedral Gardens, and the 13 geese watch over her, the residents of Barcelona, and all visitors to the city.

Inside the Barcelona Cathedral gardens.

The 13 geese that watch over Eulalia, and all who visit Barcelona.

The Barcelona Cathedral from the outside.

The Barcelona Cathedral from the outside.

Our visit to Barcelona came at a turbulent time for the country, with the province of Catalunya looking to break away from Spain. It seems, though, that remaining in Spain has a stronger following than the independence crowd. As we walked through to Plaça de Catalunya – on Spain’s National Day (October 12), as it turned out – we caught the dwindling end of a rally in favour of staying with Spain. It was mostly younger generation around, but a few middle aged, too. It was good to see that the younger generation are so involved in the politics and future of their country. How the independence decision goes... well I guess we can only wait and see!

This group of Catalans want to remain with Spain.

It's great to see young people getting involved in their country's future.

We arrived late to the rally, but there were still plenty of people around.

A vote for NOT breaking away from Spain seemed to be the majority.

We kept walking past the square and up Passeig de Gràcia. Nothing much was open, due to the public holiday, so we just enjoyed a leisurely stroll. Before long, we arrived at one of Gaudi’s infamous buildings, Casa Batlló. The odd façade, speckled with colourful crazy tiles and balconies reminiscent of masquerade ball masks are hard to miss. At the ground and first floor levels, the columns and floors look as if they have been stretched out of a brown gum, or as if they are a slowly oozing liquid. It’s really quite an odd sight to behold, and it becomes easily apparent why Gaudi was seen as such a visionary in architecture.

Casa Batlló, the first stop on our Gaudi day.

The curvy balconies are truly unique.

Just around the corner, we ducked in for lunch at Mussol Aragó. Actually a chain restaurant with a few locations around Barcelona, this particular branch is huge inside, with a dining area stretching a long way back inside the building. We enjoyed some simple but tasty meals, accompanied with some good service.

A very pleasant lunch at Mussol.

Deliciousness at a tasty price.

Back out on Passeig de Gràcia, it was only another 10 minutes’ or so walk to the next Gaudi landmark, Casa Milà. This one I recall seeing during my Contiki tour in 2011, but only in passing from the bus. The wavy structure of the floors mimics the lower levels of Batlló, again in a sandstone-style brick. It almost looks like one of those fancy birthday cakes covered in thick fondant, due to the smooth and flowing exterior. Adorning the balconies are twisted wrought iron fences that finish the building off just nicely.

Casa Milà as seen from the street.

We wandered a different route back via Carrer de Roger de Llúria and rounded Carrer de Casp to find Gaudi #3 for the day: Casa Calvet. This one is a lot less of a sore thumb than the others, blending in very nicely to the standard architecture either side. On closer inspection, the intricately carved stonework under the balconies is marvellous, and the balcony fences are somewhat of a tamed version of those on Casa Milà. The door knockers are undeniable Gaudian, if I can coin the phrase.

Casa Calvet, our third Gaudi for the day.

Nothing is without detail when Gaudi is involved.

Knock, knock, knocking on Gaudi's door.

Also worth a quick mention is the paving that adorns many paths in Barcelona, including the one outside Casa Calvet, showing the Barcelona Flower, an official emblem of the area.

The simple, yet elegant, Barcelona Flower adorning the pavement.

On the way back to La Rambla, we stopped in at Palau de la Música Catalana, which is also known for its fancy façade and interior. It is not, however, one of Gaudi’s, but still worth a look on your way past. The head sculpture at the front was tripping me out, too. It appears as a full 3D from one angle, but then goes flatter as you do a lap around. Check it out!

Inside the Palau de la Música Catalana.

This trippy head sculpture looks 3D from the correct angle.

The façade of the Palau de la Música Catalana.

Later in the evening, we ventured across the Gothic Quarter to visit the Picasso Museum. Every Thursday, from 6pm to 9:30pm, entry is free, but you need to book your spot on the website. Not being a huge art nerd, I didn’t know much about Picasso’s work, apart from the – let’s be honest – weird shapes and odd faces for which he is most famous (his “Cubism” work). However, I was quite surprised to learn that his earlier work was far more realistic and portraiture based. I took a couple of photos before I was told it wasn’t allowed (honestly didn’t see the signs!). The Cubism phase came later in his life, and I have to say I am not a fan. I know it’s a legitimate “style” of art, but I don’t personally see the appeal. Some of it (not just Picasso, but the style in general) looks like something a child brings home from art class in primary school. But I know that’s just because I’m not art-minded and I don’t “get it”..... :-)

An early self-portrait by Picasso.

One of Picasso's famous early works.

Barcelona Town Hall at Plaça de Sant Jaume.

Check out the trippy Park Güell on Day 29!