Having seen most of what there
is to see in Brussels (of course, there’s always more to see in every place!),
we decided to use our last day to take a day trip out to the gorgeous town of
Bruges.
Our AirBnB host had left us with
a train pass that she suggested we could use for exactly this purpose, which
was so lovely of her! It was a multi-trip pass, allowing 10 trips to Bruges,
and there was just enough left for us to do a return journey. Unfortunately, we
found out at the train station that the pass was for students / under-30s, or
something along those lines. We were therefore unable to use it and had to
purchase our tickets the old fashioned way!
It’s not a cheap day trip, at
€60 per person, return, but highly recommended for the unparalleled country
scenery. Sitting almost on Belgium’s northern border with the Netherlands,
Bruges somewhat straddles the two in culture and language. But they all speak
English too, so not to worry if you aren’t up to scratch on your Dutch. Having
spent a bit of time in South Africa for my job, I noticed some similarities in
the language, given that Afrikaans is about 95% Dutch. And it’s always funny to
see Dutch or German sentences that are easily understood in English but written
in the former; like this advisory on the train, above, which looks like "We coming in, in Bruges".
As soon as you get off the train
and out of the station (to the north-east), you cross the R30 which looks a lot
more major on Google Maps than it is, and dive head first into this little gem.
There’s a tourist information booth before exiting the station that will
provide a free map with various suggested walking routes and sights to see as
your wander around the town.
Our route took us along the
Minnewater, admiring the beautiful autumn scenery and reflections in the canal.
We passed by the Begijnhuisje, an active convent for Benedictine nuns, and then
through the southern parts of the city centre and passed Sint-Janshospitaal and
the Church of Our Lady Bruges (which was under renovation during our visit).
The cobble-stoned streets led us
via a huge variety of shops and we eventually made our way to Markt, the centre
of Bruges.
We browsed the various
restaurants along the perimeter of Markt, each offering a varied set menu. We
chose one that seemed alright, but it later turned out to be an error in
judgement. A bit like our experience along Rue Grétry in Brussels, the food was
perfectly edible but really not what we were hoping.
To the south end of Markt stands
the magnificent Belfry of Bruges with its marvellous 83m tall tower. You can
climb up the tower if you so wish, but down at ground level, you can explore a
myriad of information about Bruges in the reception area.
After lunch, we made our way
down Wollestraat, browsing the local shops here and there, eventually stumbling
across The Beer Wall, which is the impressive entrance to 2be. Quite the
popular little drinking spot, nestled in the back corner along the Dijver, you
have whet your whistle with a variety of different beers in served tasting
trays, along with notes about each beer’s bouquet. Because Avy was drinking
with me (I didn’t fancy getting tipsy alone), we went with the Light
assortment, as she’s not really a beer drinker – no IPAs for her palette.
Across the bridge and to the
left, you can find yourself at what is called on Google Maps “Brugge
Fotoplaats”. It’s just the opposite corner of the river to 2be, and some of the
more famous or common postcards employ this view in advertising the beauty of
Bruges.
We looped around through the
shops and alleys and came to Burg Square. Here, you can find yet another
wonderful gothic building in the Bruges Town Hall. Built in 1376, it now houses
a museum to Bruges’ art and history.
To the side of the Town Hall
stands the Basilica of the Holy Blood. The phial kept here, under constant
watch by dedicated priests, reportedly contains some cloth which has soaked up
a few drops of Jesus Christ’s blood. Of course, nobody can ever prove if it’s
true or not. You cannot take photos of the phial or, indeed, near the
procession to view the phial. You can only join the queue and get your 3 to 5
seconds checking it out before you shuffle away. Photos of the rest of the
Basilica are allowed, but the phial is protected as securely as you can imagine
something like this would be protected.
The evening was drawing near,
and so we wandered back down Steenstraat, ducking in and out of various shops,
and following all the way down to the end of Zuidzandstraat before taking a
left. We took this route back towards the train station, but it turned out to
be mostly residential. That was nice though, to see part of Bruges not
specially catering to tourists.
With one last gaze over the
river, we bought tickets (from a grumpy and unhelpful ticketmaster) and boarded
our train back to Brussels, ready to pack our things and head along on the next
way-point on our epic journey...
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